![]() The last thing to say is, another reason to choose your own USB cable is to choose one that is to supply power and not just for signals. If you do not follow this advice and the insurance company find out, in all probability they will void your insurance. One last point, if you decide to run the cable up th outside of the pillar, do not cro0ss any part of the pillar for the same reasons. If you do remove the A pillar trim and an air bag is fitted, the trim will be fitted with a restraining clip to stop the A pillar also flying through the air if the air bag trips. Under NO circumstances should this cable cross or infringe the side air bag if fitted, as if you nlucky enough to trip the air bag it will fly out bringing the cable with it and possibly wrapping it round your neck. They cabe tucked away under the dash with the cable running up inside the A pillar and under the headlining to the camera. They are almost exclusively made in China, are very cheap and of excellent quality and reliability. Such PSUs are widely available from Amazon, Ebay etc. I prefer a PSU with a USB connector on the output in which to connect a cable of my own choice and importantly, the correct length. The output cable of these devices is usually permanently connected to the PSU. For me that has an aspect that i do not like. If like me you do not like cables draped all over the dashboard, eventually arriving at the camera, there are other solutions. ![]() It is interesting to note that if the supplied PSU is plugged into the cigarette lighter holder the above connection senario is followed.Īll cameras are shipped with the manufacturers own power supply, usually it fits into the cigarette lighter socket. In this case the original fuse will be 20A or higher with extra fuse for the camera being 2 or 3A. If the rating of tha additional fuse is small relative to the initial fuse the additional load imposed on the original fuse will affect its integrity. The upper configuration is deemed to be the correct way but it not always possible to achieve this, for example if you have to piggy back holders you want to place adjacent to each other, they will not fit in. In this case the original fuse has the current to both devices flowing through it, ![]() In the lower schematic the fuses are connected together at the opposite ends thus the fuses are connected in series. This places the two fuses in parrallel giving independant fusing to the two connected devices. In the upper schematic both fuses are shown connected to the acc supply. The schematics show the effect o0f rotyating the holder, You can see from the enclosed schematics it is possible to insert the piggy back holder in the fuse box in two ways by r4otating the holder through 180 degrees. The acc supply is a voltage that is only present when the cars ignition is turned on.Ī suitable fuse is one that is fed to the cigarette lighter socket. Into thje other slot you insert a suitable fuse to protect your PSU, or any other device that you may wnt yo install.įor correct operation with single dashcam, the fuse removed should be in a slot feeding a device from the "acc" supply. The removed fuse is reinserted into the piggy back holderin the inside slot. This is in reality a dual fuseholder made to be inserted into a position vacated by removing one of the fuses in your vehcle fuse box. The enclosedimage shows schematics of a "piggy back" fuse holder. Thanks again, have a good day.There appears to be some confusion about power supplies and add on fuses. The electrics here was all fitted by my late Grandad whilst I watched so I know where and how it works, confident enough to test fittings to narrow it down to limit cost but not enough to touch anything ha. Reply to 'Refined Renovations': Very appreciated, thanks. It's simply to check one of the 3 possible lights that's causing it to blow. "Don't really understand why you would think fitting an MCB would solve anything" Reply 'DEACON ELECTRICAL SERVICES': You didn't read or answer my question. ![]() Thanks for any advice, peace of mind is priceless. Only 6a MCB's are an option, is upgrading from 5a to 6a fuses likley to cause any kind of damage or is this the standard upgrade? My Question: The light fuse is currently a 5a wire fuse, there is no 5a MCB equivalent. This isn't our solution or anything, I understand fuses blowing isn't good and we intend to fix it asap. Background: Lights are blowing, diagnosing is awkward with the wire so we've bought a WYLEX 6a type B* to make this process easier. ![]()
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